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I learned that the south Indian seasoning podi – a rough grind of fiery, roughly ground spices, which you stir into a little oil and use as a sauce for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” blend. It's aptly named if you were using my grandmother’s personally dried peppers, but it would be charitable to say that I’m far less bold with chilli, so here I suggest red pepper flakes instead. It’s an remarkably tasty marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Spicy Paneer and Potato Skewers with Mint-Lime Dressing

You will need six to eight skewers made of metal or wood (if bamboo, let them sit in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 min
Cook half an hour
Serves two people

400g waxy potatoes, cut into 1.5-inch chunks
Two hundred twenty-five grams paneer, cubed into 2cm cubes
One tsp coriander seeds
½ tsp fennel seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
One teaspoon black peppercorns
One tsp chilli flakes
1½ tsp flaky sea salt, with more for serving
Two cloves of garlic, skinned and shredded
2½cm piece fresh ginger, prepared and minced
Forty milliliters neutral oil
One red onion, skinned and sliced into eight wedges, then halved crossways

For the dressing
Lime zest and juice, freshly prepared
10g fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
Half a teaspoon flaky sea salt
100g natural yoghurt

Simmer the potatoes for 9 minutes, then drain them and allow to air dry for a minute. Meanwhile, put the paneer cubes in a bowl of boiling water for five minutes, then remove water and dry gently.

Tip the spice seeds into a pestle and mortar or blender, add the seasonings, then mash or process to a chunky blend.

Place in a medium-large bowl with the grated garlic and ginger, add the oil, then carefully mix in the ingredients to coat. Thread the paneer, potatoes and onions on to six to eight metal or soaked wooden skewers, then move to a sheet pan and reserve for later – if you like, you can at this stage wrap and chill the skewers.

Stir all the sauce elements in a container. Heat the grill to its maximum heat, then grill the skewers for 5–7 minutes on each side, until the paneer is golden brown and the potatoes are beginning to blacken. (This may take a little more or less time depending on the fierceness of your grill, so watch carefully, especially when cooking the first side.)

Present the skewers warm, sprinkled with a little more flaky salt and the accompaniment for drizzling.